October 27, 2010
Throwing a party for the bride, mom-to-be and more
Ready to party? You’re in good company.
This is the time of year when people crawl out from under their rocks and start thinking about how to best celebrate some of life’s major milestones.
The latest crop of soon-to-be high school and college grads await their diplomas. Scores of expectant moms are counting down the weeks to Baby on their swollen fingers (July being the busiest birthing month).
Somewhere between those two is wedding season, which kicks off around Memorial Day and peaks in June.
Countless graduation parties and wedding and baby showers are in the works. And that, in turn, means there’s a heck of a lot of hosts and hostesses wondering what the heck they’ve gotten themselves into.
Decisions, decisions. From the guest list to the decorations to planning the perfect food and figuring out how to keep teenagers from sneaking a taste of that yummy-sounding rum punch you can’t wait to try … it can be overwhelming, to say the least.
But you don’t have to drive yourself nuts.
Earlier this month, I hosted a bridal shower for my oldest sister Kathy’s daughter. Laura is the first of my parents’ 20 grandkids to get married, so I tread — quite happily — into virgin territory. The experience reinforced my belief that the secret to staying sane when entertaining large groups boils down to two things. First, choose a theme. Then, delegate to family and friends.
I know — themes are hokey, best suited to kids’ birthday parties. Yet choosing a single idea on which to hang your party hat is an easy way to coordinate the myriad details: the menu, the decorations, the music, the invitations. And that takes sooo much pressure off.
Every bride (and host), of course, is different. I took my cue from Laura and fiance Matt’s honeymoon plans. They’ll spend their first week as a married couple in Jamaica, so a Caribbean bridal shower seemed apropos, with a taste-of-the-islands buffet, tropical decor and a showpiece shower cake that screamed — in a laid-back, island kind of way — “Married life’s a beach!”
A quick search through some favorite cookbooks turned up recipes for a terrific mango salsa and coconut shrimp. Two new books dished up a pair of fiery, island-style entrees that would whet the bride’s appetite for sunny Ocho Rios: shredded spicy pork tacos and wet-rub jerk chicken. Because rum is Jamaica’s national drink, I’d also fill the punch bowl with a fruity planter’s punch.
On shower day, another sister, Kristin, and I covered the dining room table with a bright floral tablecloth she bought at Target to which Laura’s bridesmaids attached a hula grass skirt. For the centerpiece, we filled a giant vase with sugar (to simulate sand), added a fat candle and carefully placed inside shells Kristin had picked off the beach in North Carolina. Guests were greeted at the door with leis and umbrella-decorated cups of rum punch.
The real eye candy was the tiered shower cake on the sideboard. Which brings us to our second point about allowing people to pitch in and help: The smart hostess recognizes her limitations, and asks those who know what they’re doing to do. My weakness is baking. But my neighbor Alice Leich, a pastry chef with Parkhurst Dining Services, is a whiz at turning flour, sugar and butter into edible works of art. I asked if she’d do it for me.
I’ll admit to a few nervous minutes waiting for the cake to be delivered the morning of the party (did I get the date right?). I also didn’t know what, exactly, Alice had designed other than the fact the white cake would have orange-flavored icing under a coat of colored fondant. Turns out, hiring a professional cake maker was genius on both our parts.
The cake rose from the fondant-covered wooden platform like a sand castle on the beach. Only this one you wanted to eat. A bright-blue bottom “ocean” layer was embellished with fat yellow fishies, while from the middle “beach” layer edible palm trees sprang at jaunty angles. On top was a thatched-roofed tiki hut. With a bright red heart on the door.
My niece took one look and squealed with delight, “Oh, Aunt Gretchen!”
Rum-based Planter’s Punch is a traditional drink of welcome in the Caribbean. I served mine in a punch bowl, and kept it cool with homemade pineapple juice ice cubes studded with fresh mint.
- 2 ounces dark rum
- 2 ounces orange juice
- 2 ounces pineapple juice
- 1/2 ounce lime juice
- Dash grenadine
- Orange slices and cherry for garnish
Combine rum and 3 juices in a shaker with ice. Shake well, and strain into an ice-filled Collins glass. Top with grenadine. Garnish with an orange slice and a maraschino cherry.
For a thirsty crowd, multiply the recipe by number of servings and serve in a pitcher with ice.
Wet Jamaican Jerk Seasoning
I wasn’t sure how much heat my guests could tolerate (Scotch bonnets are among your hotter chile peppers) so I substituted a mixture of serrano and habanero chilies.
- 2 bunches (12 to 18) scallions, coarsely chopped
- 1/2 cup firmly packed light brown sugar
- 4 Scotch bonnet peppers, minced
- 8 medium cloves garlic
- 5 tablespoons ground allspice
- 3 tablespoons dried thyme
- 2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger
- 2 tablespoons peanut oil
- 2 tablespoons white distilled vinegar
- 2 tablespoons pineapple juice
- 1 tablespoon dark molasses
- 2 teaspoons kosher salt
- 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper
- 1 teaspoon ground nutmeg
- 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
- 2 large limes, juiced
Place all ingredients in a food processor fitted with a steel chopping blade. Process mixture until smooth, 11 to 15 seconds. If mixture appears too dry, add more lime juice. Place in a stainless steel, glass or ceramic container with a tight-fitting lid and refrigerate. Will keep refrigerated up to 3 weeks.
When using wet jerk marinade, make shallow slits in the meat and rub marinade onto them. Allow meat to marinate at least 5 hours, or overnight. For hamburger the slits aren’t necessary but overnight curing is.
Makes about 3 cups.
— “Damn Good Food: 157 Recipes from Hell’s Kitchen” by Mitch Omer and Ann Bauer (Borealis, 2009, $27.95)
Sweet mango gives this easy salsa recipe a tropical feel. If you can’t find ripe fruit, don’t feel bad substituting frozen mango chunks. I did, to great success. Serve with fresh tortilla chips, on top of tacos or stuffed inside a burrito.
- 1 large ripe mango, peeled and cubed
- 2 small carrots, peeled and diced
- 2 celery stalks, diced
- 1 orange, peeled and cut into cubes
- 1 fresh green chili, finely chopped (more if you like it really hot)
- Handful of fresh cilantro leaves, chopped
- Juice of 1 lime
- Pepper to taste
Combine all ingredients and refrigerate for 30 minutes before serving.
Serves 4 to 6.
— “World Food Cafe: Global Vegetarian Cooking” by Chris & Carolyn Caldicott (Soma, 2002)
With or without the chiles, this dressing is great for light tender greens. You could also serve it on a mix of romaine and tomatoes, or with thinly sliced cucumbers.
- 3/4 cup vegetable or olive oil, or a mixture of the two
- 1/3 cup fresh lime juice (from 2 limes)
- 1/2 teaspoon grated lime zest (colored rind only)
- 1/2 cup (packed) roughly chopped cilantro
- Fresh hot green chiles to taste (I used 2 serranos, but you could also use jalapeno), stemmed and roughly chopped
Combine the oil, lime juice, lime zest, cilantro, chile and a scant teaspoon salt in a blender jar and blend until smooth. Taste and add more salt if you think it needs it, keeping in mind that dressings should be highly seasoned. Pour into a jar, secure the lid and refrigerate until ready to use. Shake well immediately before use.
Makes 1 1/4 cups dressing.
— “Mexican Everyday” by Rick Bayless (Norton, 2005)
Spicy Shredded Pork Tacos
This recipe takes some time because it requires hand-shredding the meat, but it’s so worth the effort. Fresh citrus juice and ground cinnamon add a rich flavor of the islands. My kids had barely finished the leftovers (it’s even better the next day) when they starting bugging me to make some more. For my crowd of 30, I doubled the ingredients.
- 2 tablespoons dry adobo, homemade or store-bought
- 4-pound boneless pork shoulder, cut into 5 or 6 pieces, each about 2 inches wide
- Juice of 1 grapefruit
- Juice of 2 lemons
- 2 tablespoons vegetable oil, plus more as needed
- 4 Mexican chorizos (about 1 pound), removed from casings
- 2 medium yellow onions, finely diced
- 4 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 teaspoon each dried oregano, ground cumin, ground cinnamon and ground allspice
- 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
- 2 bay leaves
- 28-ounce can crushed tomatoes
- Kosher or fine sea salt and freshly ground pepper
- 18 corn or flour tortillas
Marinate the pork: Rub the dry adobo into the slices of pork, seasoning all sides well. Put in a roasting pan large enough to hold in a single layer. Pour citrus juices over pork and turn to coat all sides. Refrigerate at least 2 hours, or as long as overnight; turn the pork in the marinade occasionally.
Make the filling: Remove pork from marinade and pat dry; discard marinade. Heat oil in a Dutch oven or large casserole over medium-high heat. Lay only as many of the pork slices in the pot as will fit comfortably and cook, turning the pieces as necessary, until browned on all sides. Transfer pork pieces to plate as they brown and add remaining pieces to the pan, replenishing oil if necessary.
Add chorizo to pot and cook, stirring to break up any big pieces, until browned, about 5 minutes. Add onions and garlic, stirring to pick up any brown bits from the bottom of pot. Add spices and toss in the bay leaves. Stir in canned tomatoes and season with salt and pepper to taste. Return pork to pot, turning to coat with sauce. Bring to a boil, then adjust heat so sauce is simmering, and cover pot. Cook until pork falls apart easily when poked with a fork, 11/2 to 2 hours. Skim fat off the top of sauce occasionally as pork cooks.
Remove pork to a large plate. Coarsely shred pork with 2 forks and stir back into sauce. Check seasoning and add salt and pepper if necessary. Pork can be prepared up to 2 days in advance. Let cool completely and refrigerate. Rewarm pork over low heat, adding a small amount of water if necessary to make sauce smooth.
To serve: Wrap tortillas in aluminum foil and place in a 350-degree preheated oven until warmed through and softened, about 15 minutes. Place a heaping tablespoon (or 2) of the filling on each tortilla and roll up. Serve hot with your favorite salsa.
Makes 18 tortillas, plus 6 main course servings.
— “Daisy: Morning, Noon and Night: Bringing Your Family Together with Everyday Latin Dishes” by Daisy Martinez with Chris Styler (Atria, 2010, $30)
CARIBBEAN BRIDAL SHOWER CAKE
I’m not much of a baker so I asked my friend Alice Leich, a pastry chef with Parkhurst Dining Services, to make my niece’s shower cake for me. Using a recipe from “The Cake Bible,” she cleverly shaped the different-sized cake layers (9 in all) into a tiered beach scene, with brightly colored fondant: fish swimming in the ocean on the bottom, sandy beach in the middle, tiki hut on top. Of course, it would taste just as delicious as a two-layer cake.
- 1/2 cup egg whites, at room temperature
- 1 cup milk, at room temperature, divided
- 2 1/4 teaspoons vanilla
- 3 cups sifted cake flour
- 1 1/2 cups sugar
- 4 teaspoons baking powder
- 3/4 teaspoon salt
- 12 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Grease and flour two 9-inch-by-1 1/2-inch round cake pans, or grease and line bottoms with parchment paper.
In a medium bowl lightly combine the egg whites, 1/4 cup milk, and vanilla.
In a large mixer bowl combine the dry ingredients and mix on low speed for 30 seconds to blend. Add the soft butter and remaining 3/4 cup milk. Mix on low speed until the dry ingredients are moistened. Increase to medium speed and beat for 1 1/2 minutes. Scrape down the sides of the bowl. Add the egg mixture in 3 parts, beating for 20 seconds after each addition. Scrape down the sides.
Scrape the batter into the prepared pans and smooth the surface with a spatula. Bake 25 to 35 minutes or until a tester inserted near the center comes out clean and the cake springs back when pressed lightly in the center. The cakes should start to shrink from the sides of the pans only after removal from the oven.
Let the cakes cool in the pans on racks for 10 minutes. Loosen the sides with a small knife and invert onto greased wire racks. Invert again so the top is up, and cool completely before wrapping airtight.
— “The Cake Bible” by Rose Levy Beranbaum (Morrow, 1988)
Italian Meringue Buttercream
The filling for my niece’s Caribbean Bridal Shower Cake was flavored with vanilla, Grand Marnier and orange zest. Pastry chef Alice Leich also brushed the cake before it was filled with a simple syrup (equal parts sugar and water brought to a boil) flavored with Grand Marnier; syrups add moisture and flavor to the finished cake.
- 1 cup fresh egg whites
- 2 1/2 cups sugar, divided
- 1/2 cup water
- Dash lemon juice
- 1 pound, 10 ounces unsalted butter, softened
Place egg whites in a mixer bowl fitted with a whisk attachment.
Reserve 1/3 cup sugar. Combine the remaining sugar, water, and lemon juice in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil. Wash the sides of the pan with a pastry brush dipped in water to remove any sugar crystals.
When the syrup temperature reaches 200 degrees, start beating the egg whites on medium high. When the whites become foamy, stream in the reserved 1/3 cup sugar. Continue to beat to stiff peaks.
When the syrup temperature reaches 240 degrees, remove the saucepan from the heat and stream the syrup into the meringue, continuing to beat on medium speed.
Balancing cooking the syrup and beating the egg whites can be intimidating when working with the small quantities that can be accommodated in a home mixer. If the egg whites reach stiff peak before the syrup is ready, turn the mixer to a low speed until the syrup is ready to use. If the syrup temperature climbs above 240 degrees, simply add a little water to bring the temperature down, then continue to heat until the temperature climbs back up to 240.
Continue whipping the meringue until just slightly warm, then add the butter and whip until smooth.
Flavor to taste with extracts, liqueurs, purees, curds, or melted bittersweet chocolate.
Buttercream may be stored at room temperature for several days or in the refrigerator or freezer for longer periods. After storage, it must be mixed on low speed at room temperature with a paddle attachment to refresh its creamy texture.
— Alice Leich